All About Nebraska
Though modern transcontinental travelers tend to see Nebraska in much the same light as did the early pioneers, heading west during the Gold Rush - as just another dreary expanse of prairie to get through as fast as possible - this flat and sparsely populated state in fact encompasses quite a few places of interest. However, its most appealing cities, commercial Omaha and the livelier state capital, Lincoln, are separated by a good three hundred miles of underwhelming, livestock-rearing flatlands from the western Panhandle, where the landscape finally erupts into giant sand hills and valleys, broken by towering rocky columns and hemmed in by sheer-faced buttes.
Western Nebraska was still embroiled in vicious and bloody battles against Native Americans long after the east had been settled; from the first serious uprising in 1854, it was 36 years before the US Army could make white control unchallengeable. Close to the South Dakota state line, Fort Robinson, where Crazy Horse was murdered, remains one of the West's most evocative historic sites.
Without navigable rivers, Nebraska had to rely on the railroads to help populate the land. During the 1870s and 1880s, rail companies, encouraged by grants that allowed them to accumulate one-sixth of the state, laid down such a comprehensive network of tracks that virtually every farmer was within a day's cattle drive of the nearest halt. Thus the buffalo-hunting country of the Sioux and Pawnee was turned into high-yield farmland, which today has few rivals in terms of beef production.
Lincoln, 58 miles southwest of Omaha, serves as an oasis of culture for a large chunk of the plains. At night, when the students emerge, its compact downtown comes into its own. Of its alphabetical array of broad boulevards, O Street is the main drag; 13th and 14th streets are packed with bars and places to eat. Dwarfing the rest of downtown, the central tower of the 1932 Nebraska state capitol, 1445 K St, protrudes 400ft into the sky. Topped by a 20ft statue of a sower on a pedestal of wheat and corn, its appearance is an adventurous departure from the usual architecture of state capitols. For once there's no golden dome, and the superb iridescent murals in the foyer are a welcome alternative to old portraits, flags and emblems. From the fourteenth-floor observation deck you can survey the flatness of the surrounding farmland.
Omaha airport offers the best domestic links, though planes from other cities in the region also fly to Lincoln. Several Greyhound buses traverse I-80 each day on the coast-to-coast marathon, stopping at all the major towns. Amtrak trains, traveling through the night, follow a similar route and call at Omaha, Lincoln, Hastings, Holdredge and McCook. Driving on I-80 can get tedious; if you're not in a rush, Hwy-2 is a good alternative.
